With the COVID-19 pandemic raging, it has become increasingly important for healthcare workers and others to have access to personal protective equipment. To that end, we present the Alexis surgical cap.

This is a quick and easy sew. We hope you enjoy it.

Materials

• pattern
• woven fabric (minimum 28″ by 20″)
• 2 pieces of elastic, cut 2.5″ and 3″
• 2 buttons, optional

Assembly & Sewing Instructions

Step 1: Assemble pages as shown below and cut out pieces.

Step 2: Fold ties right sides together along long edge. Sew along long edge and angled short edge, using 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance. Clip corners. Turn ties rights side out and press. Set aside.

Step 3: Finish the raw edges of the cap piece, either by serging or a zig zag stitch. Mark the fold and pleat lines.

Step 4: Fold and press the straight edge of the cap piece to the wrong side 1½”. Fold and press the five pleats according to the arrows.

Step 5: Fold and press  ⅝” hem around edge of cap piece. 

Step 6: Align the finished edge of the previously completed ties with the finished edge of the cap.

Step 7: Top stitch the ties and the pleats on both sides using a ½” seam allowance.  Leave a ½” gap after the last pleat to insert the elastic, and sew the rounded hem of the cap piece, maintaining a ½” seam allowance.

Step 8: Using a 2½” piece of elastic or trim, create a loop and attach it at the center back of the cap piece. Making sure to maintain the ½” seam allowance.

Step 9: Thread the 3” piece of elastic through the casing you created.  Tack the ends of your elastic at each end. 

Step 10: Thread ties through looped elastic.  Your cap is now ready to be worn! 

Optional: If you’d like, you can attach a button at the second pleat on both sides of the mask, creating a way to secure ear elastic from a mask. 

This pattern was designed by Harmony Marquardt, an emergency room nurse and mother of three from Orlando, Florida. You are welcome to sell items made from this pattern, but the copyright to the pattern itself is held by Harmony Marquardt, and may not be distributed for free or sale through means other than the Sterling Sparrows website.

When did you learn to sew? Who taught you?
My mom used to sew a lot of my clothes when I was a kid, but I didn’t appreciate it at the time, and refused to learn because I thought it was silly to make things when you could just buy them from a store.  She passed away in 2004, and there have been many times since then that I wish I had listened when she tried to teach me.  It wasn’t until I had my own kids that I saw how useful it is to be able to create clothing for them that is tailored to their size and activities.

I officially started learning to sew on November 26, 2011.  I had bought my girls (ages 4 and 1 1/2 then) a kitchen set for Christmas, and decided to sew them each a set of aprons, chef hats, oven mitts, and hot pads.  Other than some occasional mending, I’d never sewn anything, or followed any patterns.  I bought all of my materials, and took everything over to my Mom’s best friend’s house and she patiently started showing me how to use a sewing machine, how to cut the fabric properly, and basically walked me through the steps to make all of the restaurant set pieces I had planned.  We worked on it for 12 straight hours.

The next big jump in sewing came with my older daughter’s desire to have a special hoodie made.  My younger daughter got a My Little Pony hoodie for her second birthday that had ears, a mane, a tail, and pegasus wings.  My older daughter loved it and was a bit jealous, so I tried to find one online in her size.  Even though she was only 5, she was the size of an average 8 year-old and we just couldn’t find anything.  So, I enlisted Kelie’s assistance to alter a store-made hoodie into a My Little Pony one for her 6th birthday.  Kelie has been my teacher/mentor ever since.

It started to snowball from there.  My girls started having special requests for Halloween costumes and birthday dresses.  I’ve made shirts and leotards specially fit to their tall and skinny mini-Amazonian bodies.  I started to branch out into making bags and purses, and I bought an embroidery machine when just picking fun fabrics wasn’t enough anymore.

Where do you gather inspiration?
Most of my inspiration comes from my girls.  They’ll ask if I can make something that we just can’t find in a store, and we make it work.  Sometimes, I’ll see something online or that someone near me is wearing, and snap a pic to see if I can figure out how to duplicate it later.

What’s your favorite part of creating?
My favorite part of creating is feeling the little sparkle of excitement when the project comes together.  There’s one at the beginning when you can visualize what your project will look like because you’ve gathered everything you’re going to use to make it, and there’s another as the project has physically taken shape and you can hold it.  When the project is for me, that’s my favorite part.

If I’m making something for my girls, my excitement is nothing compared to the look on their face when they finally get the finished project in their hands.  <3

What are your sewing superpower and weakness?  
My sewing superpower is my willingness to jump into a pattern and go for it.  I may not have done a particular technique before, or tried something so complicated, but I just take it one step at a time and work my way through it.

My weakness is that I generally can’t leave a pattern as-is.  I have a habit of tweaking things to add features I want instead of just making it as it was designed.  Kelie calls it “Frankenpatterning” when I get a little more out of control than usual.

What’s your style?
Comfortable casual.  I’m a jeans and T-shirt kinda gal, and I pick my clothing and bags by utility rather than fashion.  I aim for practical over trendy, but love seeing unique features on tried and true favorites.

What’s one thing you can’t live without?
My girls.  They inspire me to try new things.  They appreciate my crafty hobbies in a way my husband just doesn’t understand, and I’m quickly converting them to be little handcrafters in their own rights.

What are you doing when you’re not sewing/designing?
I work full-time outside the home as a front-line manager for a software company.  But my biggest time sink…er… non-sewing “fun” activity is Girl Scouts.  I’m one of the leaders of the biggest troop in our area and that takes a lot of time to maintain.  My girls absolutely love it, though, so it looks like I won’t be giving that up any time soon.

I also dabble in other crafty-like things.  I am a hobbyist baker and cake decorator.  I like painting stuff like ornaments or gaming miniatures.  My family also plays a lot of board and card games.

What machines do you have? What’s on your machine wishlist? 
My primary sewing machine is a Janome HD3000.  It works great for getting through the thick seams on bags, but it doesn’t have any of the “laziness” features that are helpful because it’s a purely mechanical machine.

My older daughter is using my Brother CS6000i.  I like how it has speed control and automatic needle settings, but it just couldn’t do really thick seams, so my daughter is using it to learn to sew right now.  I steal it back when I need the fancy stitches.  🙂

I also have a Singer Futura XL-580.  It’s a sewing/embroidery combo machine, but I’ve only ever used it for embroidery.  I love to embellish projects with bits of embroidery.  It really just takes projects up a notch.

My last machine is my Brother 1034 Serger.  I’ve had it about 6 months, and it is really helping me speed up the making of my kids’ clothes.

My wishlist is really just to upgrade what I already have.  I would love to have a heavy-duty computerized sewing machine that has all the bells and whistles and fancy stitches of the high-end computerized machines, but it needs to be able to sew through whatever crazy combination of layers I might throw at it.  For embroidery, it might be nice to someday have a multi-needle machine or something with a bigger embroidery area, but I’m quite happy with what I have right now.

What’s your advice to someone new to sewing?
Have no fear.  You get do-overs.  If you don’t like how a seam looked when you finished stitching it, pull out your trusty seam-ripper, and take it out.  Try, try again.

What’s your sewing pet peeve?
I really don’t like pinning things.  Either putting them in, or pulling them out as I’m sewing.  I got in the habit of just sewing over them when I was primarily using my Brother CS6000i and that worked really, really well (Kelie is shaking her head right now, I assure you).  But my HD3000 has more oomph, and when it hits a pin, it doesn’t just slide around it, it tries to punch through it and scary noises happen.

What’s a funny thing most people don’t know about you?
I dressed up as a clown for Halloween when I was in my late teens.  My mom made the outfit, which was one of the few times I had ever asked her to sew for me.  After Halloween, I would occasionally dress up in the costume (sometimes, including the make-up) and hang out in my room teaching myself to make balloon animals.  For some reason, it was just more fun while dressed up.  My older daughter found my stash of balloons one day and asked what they were for.  Even though I hadn’t made anything in about 10 years, we sat together and made some flowers and animals (sans costume).

When did you learn to sew? Who taught you?
I learned to sew as a very young girl. I was instantly addicted. My mom started me out with basic projects, and I would “design” (color, play with scraps, etc.) while she was sewing her own projects. I also learned a lot from my grandmothers and great-grandmothers. They were all avid seamstresses, making everything from suits to curtains to quilts and a variety of other things. Now, I take the occasional online course and have students of my own from time to time.

What is one of your favorite sewing memories?
My earliest memories of hand sewing and needlework are from about age 4. The first time I was allowed to sew on a machine was about a year later. One summer, I stayed for several weeks with my maternal grandparents, and while I was there, I went to the family quilting events. My great grandma and her many sisters and cousins would gather at someone’s house and quilt for a whole day. I remember laying underneath a king size quilt they were working on, watching as they worked so quickly and uniformly. Their stitches were perfect and consistent, to the point that it was hard to tell who had done what. They taught me how to piece blocks and the importance of good pressing.

What has been your favorite project, to date?
Oh, this is definitely a three-way tie. I made my wedding dress back in 2012. I knew what I wanted and that I wouldn’t find it in a store, so I made it. The other is my little sister’s baptismal dresses. There’s something about a beautiful white dress that really tugs at my heart strings.

 

Where do you get your inspiration?
It sounds cliché, but really—everywhere. Creativity saturates every facet of my life.

What are your sewing superpower and weakness?
My superpower is definitely being able to see how something is put together before it’s done, almost like building a 3D model in my head. It’s very useful for when someone wants to make changes to a pattern (which, when you’re working with Emilee, usually end up being extensive!) My weakness is definitely messiness. I have the tendency to throw my thread, scraps and all that on the floor next to me. Lately, I’ve just been moving the trash can to the spot where I normally throw things. It’s a work in progress.

What’s your favorite part of creating something new?
I love so much about creating. Lately, though, my favorite thing has been spending time with Emilee while we are working on new things. We have so much fun together.

How did this collaboration with Emilee come about? 
I got very sick in the Fall of 2014, and quickly found myself unable to work. My husband and I, along with my doctors, thought the situation would be resolved after what was supposed to be an easy surgery. As it often does, life had other plans for me, as despite my best efforts and more than a year later, I still haven’t been able to go back to working full-time. I was using my sewing projects to keep myself busy, and eventually realized that it would be a better use of my time to start working on this business rather than wait around for something that may or may not ever happen. I’ve wanted to do it anyway, and now I don’t really have any excuses not to. Adding Emilee to the mix was a natural progression. She is a perfect compliment to the way I work, and I am so grateful for her!

What are you doing when you’re not sewing or designing? 
Probably sleeping—ha ha!

What machines do you use? What’s on your machine wishlist?
Most of my sewing and embroidery is done on a Brother SE-400. I have two vintage machines and a serger as well. Someday, I’d like to invest in a cover-stitch machine and an embroidery machine with a larger hoop area. I also really want a Silhouette.

What’s your best advice to someone new to sewing?
Be kind to yourself! Sewing is a skill. It won’t be perfect the first time, but it gets better the more you practice. Everything you do is practice for the next thing. Don’t be afraid to have wonky stitches or to use your seam ripper. No one is good at sewing in the first 5 minutes and everyone has bad sewing days. Also, share your projects with other people who sew. They’re a very special kind of tribe who know what it’s like to need to create new and beautiful things. Lastly, always watermark your photos. Especially photos of kids.

What’s your sewing pet peeve? 
Running out of bobbin thread near the end of the seam. Really. Happens a lot more than it should.

What’s a funny thing most people don’t know about you?
I am allergic to chocolate and people’s reaction when they first hear about it is always hilarious. It’s usually along the lines of “That’s just so tragic!“

Hi all, Kelie here! Over the years, I’ve been asked a lot of questions about pins, how they’re used in sewing and whether there are best practices when using them. Here is an outline on types of pins, storage options, and how I use them while sewing. (Note: this post contains affiliate links. To read our affiliates policy, click here).

Types of Pins
First and foremost, there are many types of pins, but my focus today will be on straight pins. They vary in five categories:

1. Length – Pins come in two measurements, imperial and metric. Imperial pins are measured to the nearest 1/16th of an inch, and are given a size number. Metric pins are measured to the nearest millimeter.
2. Thickness – Generally, longer pins are also thicker pins. Dressmaker pins, the most commonly used, are for light- to mid-weight fabrics. Pleating and applique pins are shorter and thinner. Upholstery pins, meant for heavier fabrics, are thicker and longer than dressmaker pins. My favorites are these ultra fine dressmaker pins.
3. Type of Head – The heads of pins are typically made of glass, plastic or metal. Glass and metal pins can be ironed over, while plastic pins come in varieties that make them easier to see and grasp (especially for young kids).
4. Type of Tip – Most pins are sharp, but there are ballpoint tipped pins for knits.
5. Metal Content – Pins are made from a variety of metals, though they are typically rust-resistant or rust-proof, and plated with nickel to make them magnetic.

Bent & Broken Pins
Let’s face it: pins bend and break. They get burrs or go dull. It’s important to keep your pins clean from needles and other things that invariably end up mixed in. But what’s the best way of disposing broken sharps? Instead of throwing them into the trash loose, I recommend using an old prescription bottle. I drilled a hole in the top of mine so I wouldn’t have to open it when I need to put a needle or pin in it. This keeps the sharps together, and it protects me from being accidentally stuck.

Storing Pins
I can’t really take credit for this one, because Emilee found it before I did, but we both use the Dritz Ultimate Storage Caddy for my pins. I really love this thing. It’s magnetic on top and bottom, so the pins tend to stay all together. A magnetic pin dish even keeps them all pointing the same way! You want to avoid storing pins where they can be exposed to moisture, as this can cause some of them to rust. (This is another reason not to put them in your mouth while sewing!).

If you don’t have this particular caddy, that’s okay! You can store your pins in their original containers or use a pin cushion. Lots of people use pin cushion tomatoes. They even make pin cushions you can wear on your wrist.

Using Pins
Okay, now for the good stuff… Whenever possible, you want to keep pins inside your seam allowances. This reduces the chances that your fabric will be marred by the pins.

1. Use the smallest pin strong enough for your project. (For example, you shouldn’t use large upholstery pins on a lightweight fabric).
2. Don’t sew over pins. This can bend/break your pins. It can bend/break your needle. It can damage your sewing machine and your fabric. Just don’t.
3. Start by matching up pattern notches and fabric stretch.

There are three ways to pin: parallel to the stitching line, perpendicular to the stitching line and diagonal to the stitching line.

Pinning parallel to the stitching line is useful when you’re going to use a serger. It prevents you from hitting pins with the serger knife (which could break the knife). You don’t have to take my word for it. Just this week, Emilee accidentally hit a pin with her serger. She broke the knife, bits of pin flew up at her, and she damaged the stitch finger on her machine. One missed pin turned into $40 in replacement parts to get going again!

Pinning perpendicular to the stitching line is the most stable, and should generally be used when using a sewing machine. Pinning this way prevents your fingers from being pricked with pins while sewing, and allows pins to be removed quickly, without having to stop the machine.

Pinning diagonally to the stitching line allows for flexibility in the seam line. I use it most often when pinning a zipper in place, because it prevents the pins from interfering with the zipper teeth. I also use it anywhere where the stretch of a seam is important, such as around curves.

Of course, there are other ways to secure seams, such as using WonderClips, but that’s a post for another day.

Do you have a favorite pinning tool or technique I didn’t mention? Leave us a comment below to let us know what it is!

Happy sewing!

Hey there!

Around here, there are a lot of super nerds. We love all things Star Wars (among other fandoms, of course), so for Star Wars day we thought we’d offer you a special treat: free cosplay layouts for BB-8 and R2D2! (Note: this post contains affiliate links. To read our affiliates policy, click here).

The layouts and pieces for these two adorable droids are available in our Facebook group, here.

Disclaimer: these were made using the Mouse House Creations Caroline Party dress as the bodice base (we made some changes that I’ll describe below). If you don’t have the Caroline, you can purchase it from the MHC Shop, here.

Changes to the Pattern

• BB-8 was drafted on the size 6 bodice width, size 8 length.
• R2D2 was drafted on the size 10 bodice with, size 12 length.
• We changed the gathered skirt to a half-circle skirt, so that the skirt details would be more clearly visible. You can use any online calculator to draft a half-circle skirt.

How to Use These Applique Pieces

After you cut out your Caroline pattern pieces, but before you do any sewing/assembly:

• You will need to print out the droid applique piece pages and assemble them. (Some pages don’t require assembly).
• You will need to trace the pieces onto a thin double-sided fusible, like Heat-n-Bond Lite. (Make sure as you do this that you don’t accidentally make any pieces backwards).
• Then, you iron the pieces to your applique fabric, cut them out, and iron them down to your bodice or skirt pieces. (There are layout diagrams that show where each piece goes).
• Lastly, you use a narrow, short zig-zag stitch to go around all of the edges, in a coordinating thread.

We recommend waiting until the dress is fully assembled to add the skirt applique pieces. This will ensure that the placement on the skirt is correct. 

Notes About the PDF

• These files are designed with layers, allowing you to choose whether to use the A4 or Letter paper guides. You may see both sets of lines if you print from a mobile device or tablet.
• There are layout guides for each separate section of the costume. They are general layout guides, so they’re not perfectly to scale.
• You will need to size the pieces up or down to use them for smaller or larger sizes. You can do this with Adobe’s print to scale option. You can use the measurement boxes to check your percentage of change. If you do change the scaling, you will likely need to redraft the neckline pieces. If you would rather not, the Caroline pattern comes with an optional collar that would also work well.

Be sure to tag your completed creations using #SterlingSparrows on Instagram and Facebook. We can’t wait to see them!